Friday, October 31, 2008
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
A little reconstruction
I have been sewing quite a bit of my daughter's clothes lately, trying to play catch-up and get some dressier items ready for fall/winter and the upcoming holiday season. That said I tried a little experimentation on an Ottobre 2008 pattern. I really loved the top of it, especially the poufy sleeves and wanted to make it into a twirl dress.
So I took the shirt pattern, chopped off the bottom half and added a tiered twirl skirt to it instead. I like the result. Sleeves look a little long, but I think that's because she had her hands pulled up into the sleeves. The pattern called for shirring on the bodice, I added that but omitted the rows of ruffles right next to the button band. I knew she wouldn't go for those.
This was supposed to be the test dress but my daughter doesn't love this design enough to warrant a redo in the Tina Givens fabric I had originally planned for it, so on to plan B for that one. Still, I love how it turned out and despite her opinion, I happen to think this is a really lovely dress on her. 
The buttons are vintage faux pearl (aka lucite) ones I snagged from my Mom's stash (thanks again Mom). The fabric is Michael Miller's peppermint damask. I added a matching headband 'cause those are fun to make, so why not.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Three cheers for helping husbands
Specifically mine. He has been super helpful and supportive of my new ventures into the sewing business. I have been sewing for a long time, since I was a kid really, and started with a hand-me-down machine (much appreciated) from my Aunt. That thing pretty much lived in a closet unless it was needed and at that point it would occupy the kitchen table as a work space. As you might imagine, we did also need the kitchen table for meals - that system didn't really work out too well. Fast forward a couple of decades and I now have a nice converted armoire with fold-out tables for my machines and lots of storage for fabric stash underneath all courtesy of my helpful and handy hubby.
Sadly unrealistic view of how it should/could look:
Open Sesame
A.K.A: The Zone ~ More realistic look of it's usual state
We recently did a MAJOR reorganization. The room I sew in is in fact an office as we don't happen to have any extra rooms in our little 3 bedroom abode to spare for just sewing related endeavours. My little armoire of sewing was overflowing, so I cleaned out the office - there were lots of cabinets full of miscellaneous office stuff - much of which just needed to be pitched. So dear hubby helped and we cleared out 2 large cabinets of shelving for my stuff. I also brought over my organizer bins - the kind with the little drawers you pull out like you might find in a workshop or tackle box? Anyway, I had had them for years but they were living in my storage area and weren't really accessible. I pulled them out - cleaned out most of the junk from them and they are now living in the top shelf of the armoire and all my notions and tools are organized and in easy reach. Now as to the question of stash ~ I took the entire PILE of fabrics on the cutting table, and moved them into the newly emptied cabinets - so now everything is put away again. SOOOO Much nicer.
Sadly unrealistic view of how it should/could look:
Open Sesame
A.K.A: The Zone ~ More realistic look of it's usual state
We recently did a MAJOR reorganization. The room I sew in is in fact an office as we don't happen to have any extra rooms in our little 3 bedroom abode to spare for just sewing related endeavours. My little armoire of sewing was overflowing, so I cleaned out the office - there were lots of cabinets full of miscellaneous office stuff - much of which just needed to be pitched. So dear hubby helped and we cleared out 2 large cabinets of shelving for my stuff. I also brought over my organizer bins - the kind with the little drawers you pull out like you might find in a workshop or tackle box? Anyway, I had had them for years but they were living in my storage area and weren't really accessible. I pulled them out - cleaned out most of the junk from them and they are now living in the top shelf of the armoire and all my notions and tools are organized and in easy reach. Now as to the question of stash ~ I took the entire PILE of fabrics on the cutting table, and moved them into the newly emptied cabinets - so now everything is put away again. SOOOO Much nicer.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Tee shirt Tute! Part Two: Antonia
As promised, here is a play-by-play of the ANTONIA construction. This is my version, there is already an official Farbenmix tute out there, but I thought I would add a few tidbits of accumulated wisdom ~ aka my random thoughts.
This tute is for the pieced version of the top. I did not attempt the short-sleeved keyhole version - yet. Ok here goes, first off if you plan to use multiple different fabrics, you definately want to think about your design a bit. It's tougher to mis-match fabrics than you might think and create something really cute.
Trillium tip** take the time to check the sizing of the pattern pieces. This pattern is touted to run small. I found it to run short, but not narrow and the arm length is off as well. Specifically I found the bell sleeve piece to be extra long, while the regular sleeve was a bit short ~ so check sizing before you start depending upon which design you are doing.
Cut everything out. That's pretty straightforward - right? Don't forget to add seam allowance (SA) and transfer all the pattern markings to the pieces. I usually do a 1/4" (5mm) SA on the seams and 1/2" (12mm) SA on the hems and cuffs. Ok let's sew it up.
1. Sew the front yokes to the front of the shirt. Remember the front edges of both the yoke and the main body piece are notched. (In case you were wondering which one goes in front, and which in the back. One side of the yoke is alot longer - that one goes in the back.)
The yokes will be slightly shorter than the front piece -that is ok!
2. Sew ONE of the back yoke seams to the main back piece. Remember only one seam. You need to leave the other side open for now.
3. Sew the neckline band piece to the neck opening. Note that when you cut this piece, the instructions don't really tell you exactly how long to cut the neckband. I think it gives a range of between 25.5-35.5" (65-90 cm). Just make sure it is long enough to cover the neckline and you want to cut it across the grain of the ribbing so that it has maximum stretch. I sewed this onto the front, right sides facing.
As you sew, pull the neckband slightly as you stitch it to the neck opening (don't pull the whole seam - just the neckband) - that way it will pull in slightly when you are done and prevent the neckline from gaping and looking unprofessional.
4. Fold the neckband in half - folding to the inside of the shirt and topstitch below the seam line using a stretch stitch.
Make sure when you fold it over that it reaches to the bottom of your neckseam on the inside - you might find copious pinning helpful. 
Use a 3 stitch zigzag if you have one on your machine, or just a regular zigzag stitch if you don't, for the topstitching.
Trillium tip** Alternatively, you may chose to use a foldover elastic (FOE) in place of the neckband for a different look. Both work. The procedure is the same except you will stitch directly onto the FOE through all layers at once saving yourself a step.
5. Close the remaining shoulder seam, right sides facing.
Then use a tack or straight line of stitching to secure the neckline seam. 
Trillium tip** step 5 follows the farbenmix directions. Personally, I prefer to close the shoulder seam before step 4, and then topstitching. This eliminates the need for the tack stitch in step 5 and also gives a more finished professional look. But it is a bit trickier to do that way, so it's your call. Either way works. To see how this is done, go visit the Quiara Tute.
6. Put aside the main shirt sections for now. Assemble the sleeve sections and sew them together, making sure you are sewing with right sides together.
7. Once the sleeve is assembled, sew the sleeve top to the armhole opening. Again copious pinning is helpful. Make sure to match the notches and ease slightly underarm if necessary.
8. Now sew up the arm seam and side seam all in one step.
9. Hem up the cuffs and the bottom of the shirt.
This is similar to the neckband topstitching you did in step 4. You will just pin it up and sew from the top using the stretch stitch on your machine. Try not to stretch the seam as you go or it will buckle and look unprofessional.
Guess what? You are done! Fun huh?
An Antonia using FOE in place of neckband.
This top lends itself to endless varieties of design options and is a great way to use up knit scraps. You might just find yourself addicted to trying new combinations. Works for boys as well as girls.
This tute is for the pieced version of the top. I did not attempt the short-sleeved keyhole version - yet. Ok here goes, first off if you plan to use multiple different fabrics, you definately want to think about your design a bit. It's tougher to mis-match fabrics than you might think and create something really cute.
Trillium tip** take the time to check the sizing of the pattern pieces. This pattern is touted to run small. I found it to run short, but not narrow and the arm length is off as well. Specifically I found the bell sleeve piece to be extra long, while the regular sleeve was a bit short ~ so check sizing before you start depending upon which design you are doing.
Cut everything out. That's pretty straightforward - right? Don't forget to add seam allowance (SA) and transfer all the pattern markings to the pieces. I usually do a 1/4" (5mm) SA on the seams and 1/2" (12mm) SA on the hems and cuffs. Ok let's sew it up.
1. Sew the front yokes to the front of the shirt. Remember the front edges of both the yoke and the main body piece are notched. (In case you were wondering which one goes in front, and which in the back. One side of the yoke is alot longer - that one goes in the back.)
The yokes will be slightly shorter than the front piece -that is ok!
2. Sew ONE of the back yoke seams to the main back piece. Remember only one seam. You need to leave the other side open for now.
3. Sew the neckline band piece to the neck opening. Note that when you cut this piece, the instructions don't really tell you exactly how long to cut the neckband. I think it gives a range of between 25.5-35.5" (65-90 cm). Just make sure it is long enough to cover the neckline and you want to cut it across the grain of the ribbing so that it has maximum stretch. I sewed this onto the front, right sides facing.
As you sew, pull the neckband slightly as you stitch it to the neck opening (don't pull the whole seam - just the neckband) - that way it will pull in slightly when you are done and prevent the neckline from gaping and looking unprofessional.
4. Fold the neckband in half - folding to the inside of the shirt and topstitch below the seam line using a stretch stitch.
Make sure when you fold it over that it reaches to the bottom of your neckseam on the inside - you might find copious pinning helpful. 
Use a 3 stitch zigzag if you have one on your machine, or just a regular zigzag stitch if you don't, for the topstitching.
Trillium tip** Alternatively, you may chose to use a foldover elastic (FOE) in place of the neckband for a different look. Both work. The procedure is the same except you will stitch directly onto the FOE through all layers at once saving yourself a step.
5. Close the remaining shoulder seam, right sides facing.
Then use a tack or straight line of stitching to secure the neckline seam. 
Trillium tip** step 5 follows the farbenmix directions. Personally, I prefer to close the shoulder seam before step 4, and then topstitching. This eliminates the need for the tack stitch in step 5 and also gives a more finished professional look. But it is a bit trickier to do that way, so it's your call. Either way works. To see how this is done, go visit the Quiara Tute.
6. Put aside the main shirt sections for now. Assemble the sleeve sections and sew them together, making sure you are sewing with right sides together.
7. Once the sleeve is assembled, sew the sleeve top to the armhole opening. Again copious pinning is helpful. Make sure to match the notches and ease slightly underarm if necessary.
8. Now sew up the arm seam and side seam all in one step.
9. Hem up the cuffs and the bottom of the shirt.
This is similar to the neckband topstitching you did in step 4. You will just pin it up and sew from the top using the stretch stitch on your machine. Try not to stretch the seam as you go or it will buckle and look unprofessional.
Guess what? You are done! Fun huh?
An Antonia using FOE in place of neckband.
This top lends itself to endless varieties of design options and is a great way to use up knit scraps. You might just find yourself addicted to trying new combinations. Works for boys as well as girls.
Tee Shirt Tute ~ Part One: QUIARA
As promised, here is a play-by-play of the QUIARA construction. This is my version, there is already an official Farbenmix tute out there, but as always, I have another word or two to say on the matter.
This tute is for the hoodless, regular length top in the pattern.
Cut everything out. That's pretty straightforward - right? I found the pattern to run pretty true-to-size. Don't forget to add seam allowance (SA) and transfer all the pattern markings to the pieces. I usually do a 1/4" (5mm) SA on the seams and 1/2" (12mm) SA on the hems and cuffs. When cutting the neckband piece cut it across the grain of the ribbing so that it has maximum stretch. Ok let's sew it up.
1. Sew the front and back of the shirt together at the shoulder seam (right sides facing).
Sew only ONE seam, leave the other one open for now.
2. Sew the neckline band piece to the neck opening.
I sewed this onto the front, right sides facing. As you sew, pull the neckband slightly as you stitch it to the neck opening (don't pull the whole seam - just the neckband) - that way it will pull in slightly when you are done and prevent the neckline from gaping and looking unprofessional.
Inside
Outside
4. Ok this is where my instructions will differ from farbenmix. I prefer to close the shoulder seam before topstitching the neckband. This eliminates the need for the tack stitch and also gives a more finished professional look. But it is a bit trickier to do that way, so it's your call. Either way works. If you prefer, you can follow the neckline directions in the ANTONIA tute instead.
Close the remaining shoulder seam, right sides facing.
5. Now foldover the neckband to the inside of the shirt, pinning in place over the seam and topstitching in place using a stretch stitch.
6. Put aside the main shirt sections for now. Pick up the small (short) sleeve sections and finish off the hem either by topstitching or by applying FOE.
7. Layer the short and long sleeved sections together with the wrong side of the short sleeve facing the right side of the long sleeved section, matching the top edges.
I baste them in place here so they don't move when i'm stitching. I pull the fabric slighting as i'm basting to retain it's stretchiness. 
NOTE ** This basting method may not be recommended if your fabric is low in lycra or elastane. Test first!
8. Attach the layered sleeve sections to the armhole opening with right sides together and sew. Again copious pinning is helpful. Make sure to match the notches and ease slightly underarm if necessary.
9. Now sew up the arm seam and side seam all in one step. Make sure when you sew that the hem on the short sleeve section is folding down in the right direction in the seam allowance. You don't want to inadvertently have the short sleeve hem folded up in the seam.
10. Hem up the cuffs and the bottom of the shirt. This is similar to the neckband topstitching you did in step 5. You will just pin it up and sew from the top using the stretch stitch on your machine. Try not to stretch the seam as you go or it will ripple and look unprofessional.
Quiara using FOE in place of neckband.
Guess what? You are done! Fun huh?
This tute is for the hoodless, regular length top in the pattern.
Cut everything out. That's pretty straightforward - right? I found the pattern to run pretty true-to-size. Don't forget to add seam allowance (SA) and transfer all the pattern markings to the pieces. I usually do a 1/4" (5mm) SA on the seams and 1/2" (12mm) SA on the hems and cuffs. When cutting the neckband piece cut it across the grain of the ribbing so that it has maximum stretch. Ok let's sew it up.
1. Sew the front and back of the shirt together at the shoulder seam (right sides facing).
Sew only ONE seam, leave the other one open for now.
2. Sew the neckline band piece to the neck opening.
I sewed this onto the front, right sides facing. As you sew, pull the neckband slightly as you stitch it to the neck opening (don't pull the whole seam - just the neckband) - that way it will pull in slightly when you are done and prevent the neckline from gaping and looking unprofessional.Inside
Outside
4. Ok this is where my instructions will differ from farbenmix. I prefer to close the shoulder seam before topstitching the neckband. This eliminates the need for the tack stitch and also gives a more finished professional look. But it is a bit trickier to do that way, so it's your call. Either way works. If you prefer, you can follow the neckline directions in the ANTONIA tute instead.
Close the remaining shoulder seam, right sides facing.
5. Now foldover the neckband to the inside of the shirt, pinning in place over the seam and topstitching in place using a stretch stitch.
6. Put aside the main shirt sections for now. Pick up the small (short) sleeve sections and finish off the hem either by topstitching or by applying FOE.
7. Layer the short and long sleeved sections together with the wrong side of the short sleeve facing the right side of the long sleeved section, matching the top edges.
I baste them in place here so they don't move when i'm stitching. I pull the fabric slighting as i'm basting to retain it's stretchiness. 
NOTE ** This basting method may not be recommended if your fabric is low in lycra or elastane. Test first!
8. Attach the layered sleeve sections to the armhole opening with right sides together and sew. Again copious pinning is helpful. Make sure to match the notches and ease slightly underarm if necessary.
9. Now sew up the arm seam and side seam all in one step. Make sure when you sew that the hem on the short sleeve section is folding down in the right direction in the seam allowance. You don't want to inadvertently have the short sleeve hem folded up in the seam.
10. Hem up the cuffs and the bottom of the shirt. This is similar to the neckband topstitching you did in step 5. You will just pin it up and sew from the top using the stretch stitch on your machine. Try not to stretch the seam as you go or it will ripple and look unprofessional.
Quiara using FOE in place of neckband.
Guess what? You are done! Fun huh?