Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Tee Shirt Tute ~ Part One: QUIARA

As promised, here is a play-by-play of the QUIARA construction. This is my version, there is already an official Farbenmix tute out there, but as always, I have another word or two to say on the matter.

This tute is for the hoodless, regular length top in the pattern.

Cut everything out. That's pretty straightforward - right? I found the pattern to run pretty true-to-size. Don't forget to add seam allowance (SA) and transfer all the pattern markings to the pieces. I usually do a 1/4" (5mm) SA on the seams and 1/2" (12mm) SA on the hems and cuffs. When cutting the neckband piece cut it across the grain of the ribbing so that it has maximum stretch. Ok let's sew it up.

1. Sew the front and back of the shirt together at the shoulder seam (right sides facing). Sew only ONE seam, leave the other one open for now.

2. Sew the neckline band piece to the neck opening.
I sewed this onto the front, right sides facing. As you sew, pull the neckband slightly as you stitch it to the neck opening (don't pull the whole seam - just the neckband) - that way it will pull in slightly when you are done and prevent the neckline from gaping and looking unprofessional.

4. Ok this is where my instructions will differ from farbenmix. I prefer to close the shoulder seam before topstitching the neckband. This eliminates the need for the tack stitch and also gives a more finished professional look. But it is a bit trickier to do that way, so it's your call. Either way works. If you prefer, you can follow the neckline directions in the ANTONIA tute instead.

Close the remaining shoulder seam, right sides facing.
5. Now foldover the neckband to the inside of the shirt, pinning in place over the seam and topstitching in place using a stretch stitch.

6. Put aside the main shirt sections for now. Pick up the small (short) sleeve sections and finish off the hem either by topstitching or by applying FOE.

7. Layer the short and long sleeved sections together with the wrong side of the short sleeve facing the right side of the long sleeved section, matching the top edges. I baste them in place here so they don't move when i'm stitching. I pull the fabric slighting as i'm basting to retain it's stretchiness.
NOTE ** This basting method may not be recommended if your fabric is low in lycra or elastane. Test first!

8. Attach the layered sleeve sections to the armhole opening with right sides together and sew. Again copious pinning is helpful. Make sure to match the notches and ease slightly underarm if necessary.

9. Now sew up the arm seam and side seam all in one step. Make sure when you sew that the hem on the short sleeve section is folding down in the right direction in the seam allowance. You don't want to inadvertently have the short sleeve hem folded up in the seam.

10. Hem up the cuffs and the bottom of the shirt. This is similar to the neckband topstitching you did in step 5. You will just pin it up and sew from the top using the stretch stitch on your machine. Try not to stretch the seam as you go or it will ripple and look unprofessional.

Quiara using FOE in place of neckband.

Guess what? You are done! Fun huh?
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